Glimpse of Canada

Week One of The Roadtrip

We spent last week in Canada, starting in Niagara Falls. Many people warned us that the city is a big, kitschy amusement park, borderline tourist trap, built around the falls. And they were right… but still, the falls themselves did not disappoint! They are amazing – especially up close, the Maid of the Mist brings you right to the falls making it a very spectacular and rather wet experience.

Next, Toronto. We underestimated how big this city is (I blame it on the map, it was very deceiving)… we walked the entire time, probably almost half a marathon during the two days we were there (I am not exaggerating this time!). The city is very modern, a lot of high rise buildings, a nice waterfront area with beautiful parks. We also walked through the older parts of Toronto such as Cabbagetown and Yorkville but I have to be honest, Toronto didn’t impress us that much (although that may be because (a) we had really high expectations and (b) we were so tired of walking everywhere that we were no longer able to digest all the sights).

A brief stop in Ottawa allowed us just enough time to see the historic center. Parliament Hill could have easily been imported from London (in a way, it was… Wikipedia it). We were there during Tulip Festival but of course, with our luck (remember the Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington DC?), the tulips were already gone. The city center was really beautiful, and to our relief, rather small compared to Toronto.

We ended our one week tour of Canada in Montréal, which really won us over. In the beginning, I was a bit confused. We were supposed to be in Canada but it was 30+ ° Celsius, people spoke French (although with a funny accent) and the city felt a lot like Brussels… We wandered around the streets of Vieux Montréal, had a “baguette aux rillettes” (which made Ward really, really happy), visited the Notre Dame, strolled along the boardwalk/quai, ending up in the shopping street (very similar to Brussels’ Rue Neuve)  … yep, it all felt very familiar and European. The next day, we saw a different, more modern side of Montréal, the botanical garden and the old Olympic stadium (with the former velodrôme turned into a Biodôme or zoo) and Ile Sainte-Hélène where the expo of 1967 was held. The votes are unanimous, out of the 3 cities we visited in Canada, we definitely liked Montréal best!

Goodbye...

and Hello...

Today was our very last day in New York City, possibly one of the saddest moments in our life. Although we were only in NY for 16 months, we regard the city as our new home. Living in NYC is a hit or miss: you love it or you hate it. We absolutely loved it and would be very comfortable staying another 3 to 5 years.

But time has come to move on... so we say goodbye to the Big Apple and hello to our life on the road! To celebrate the next chapter of our American adventures, I changed the layout of our blog. Hope you like it!

In less than one hour, our plane leaves to Buffalo, New York. From there, we cross the Canadian border by car. We will spend about one week in Canada, visiting the Niagara Falls, Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal.  I hope to post some pictures in the coming week.

New York Tour Guide (7)

Village, Meatpacking & Brooklyn

You haven't seen the lower west side of NYC yet. So, today, we start in the Meatpacking District with its expensive designer boutiques. Walk inside Chelsea Market for early lunch (I recommend take out at Lobster Place) and/or ice cream at L'Arte Del Gelato. If you leave Chelsea Market at the other end, you will be right under the High Line Park, a park built on an elevated rail track that until 1980 was used for transport of meat (hence, Meatpacking District) to the warehouses.

Exit the High Line at Gansevoort Street and walk down on Bleecker Street. I love this street... low raised buildings, bars and boutiques, it all feels very cosy! Stop at Magnolia Bakery for some cupcakes and feel less guilty by walking all the way down to 6th Avenue.

In the afternoon, walk over the Brooklyn Bridge. I know, I know – you are really tired and probably the idea of doing another hike across the river sounds terrifying, but please – trust me – YOU HAVE TO THIS! It is breathtaking!

I would recommend to start in Brooklyn. That way you get an excellent view of the Manhattan skyline. Take the subway to DUMBO (or Down Under the Manhattan Bridge). Walk on the boardwalk in Empire Fulton Ferry State Park which has an amazing view on Manhattan and the Brooklyn Bridge. Chances are that at least one “just married” couple is taking their wedding pictures here (usually accompanied with a limousine / hummer filled with wedding guests). If patient enough, wait in line at Grimaldi’s for pizza. Next, head up to the Brooklyn Bridge and enjoy the view!

To end your stay in New York, take one of the boat cruises circling the island. Circle Line tours has an affordable sunset cruise, the perfect way to end your trip to the most amazing city in the world!

And so, I conclude our little basic tour guide to New York City... Of course, there is so much more to see in the Big Apple but I think our guide is a good start. They say about New York, that you either love it or hate it - if you love it, I ensure you, you will be back! Or maybe, you will even move to the City and have the time of your life! :-)

(click on the maps for a better view)

New York Tour Guide (6)

China, Italy and Brooklyn

Today, we go international… (although the Big Apple is in a certain way always multicultural).


Start the day in Chinatown where even the street signs are translated into Chinese. You will see a lot of tiny stores filled with (fresh?) fish, strange looking vegetables, and all sorts of Chinese nic nacs. If you’re adventurous, try one of the restaurants here (they can be really good, but I get nervous when I don’t recognize the food on my plate, especially when it looks like a strange jelly-like substance).

Then go up to Little Italy through Mulberry Street, right next to Chinatown (it’s hard to see where Chinatown ends and where Little Italy begins). It is not exactly how you picture the romantic streets of Italy but the Italian restaurant signs make a nice picture frame for the Empire State Building at the horizon. For one of the best pizza’s in NYC, head to Lombardi’s (but be prepared for a long wait!). While we are on the subject, other excellent pizza places are John’s (see my previous post on Times Square), Otto (at NYU), Patsy’s (6 locations in NYC including one in the Upper West Side) and Grimaldi’s (under the Brooklyn Bridge but a bit too touristy in my opinion).


Take Elizabeth Street and walk through NoLiTa (or North of Little Italy), with its trendy boutiques and if you're hungry, have lunch at the one Michelin star restaurant Public. Next, take a detour crossing the Bowery, through the Sara Roosevelt Park. If you want a genuine "New York Deli" experience, stop at Katz's Delicatessen. Maybe you remember this place from the famous quote out the When Harry Met Sally movie scene: "I'll have what she's having!". Have the pastrami, corned beef, OR Rueben sandwich - I said "OR", please don't combine unless you want to risk an indigestion!

In the afternoon, go to SoHo (or South of Houston Street - pronounced Howston!) where you can shop till you drop. Definitely go inside the Prada store, which used to be the Guggenheim museum. The Mango across the street is located inside the beautiful old Singer factory. Other stores you have to see? Sorry, you're on you own here... there's so much to see (and buy) in SoHo - I don't even know where to start!

For dinner, I can recommend Mercer Kitchen, one of the many excellent restaurants of Jean Georges Vongerichten. By the way, his 3 Michelin star restaurant "Jean Georges" offers an affordable prix fixe lunch during the week (about USD 40 for three courses) and is located inside the Trump Hotel at Columbus Circle (don't forget to reserve your table). Having lunch here is definitely an "I'm in New York City and I'm enjoying life" moment!

New York Tour Guide (5)

The Posh UES

We don't go to the Upper East Side very often (getting from the west to the east side is quite a hassle as you may remember from my July 4th post...). So, I must confess that I am pretty unfamiliar with this area. But I do have some recommendations to fill at least one day in the Upper East Side (or UES in short).

Fifth Avenue in the UES is also known as the Museum Mile, with reason. At 89th Street, you will find the famous white Guggenheim Museum. Now, this museum is very beautiful, has a nice permanent collection but if you’re pressed for time I would suggest you skip this one. You might want to quickly go inside the lobby to see the inside of the famous white dome.

Across the avenue, a little bit further down, the treasures of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (or "The MET" in short) await you. You definitely need to see this one – the suggested admission is USD20 but here’s a little insider tip: this is only "suggested", you pay as much or as little you want. This museum is the New York equivalent of Le Louvre. It is huge! So, you need a plan of attack: pick out those parts you definitely want to see or you will spend the entire day in here. We recommend the Egyptian wing (with an entire temple imported from Egypt and a big collection of mummies) and the impressionists on the 2nd floor (Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet, too many to mention). Also go up to the roof deck (not open in winter) for the sculpture garden with a panoramic view on Central Park. Have a cooling drink (they have really good mojito's) or a quick bite. Don't forget to drop by the store (I especially love their jewelry inspired by the museum's collection).

Many other museums follow on 5th Avenue: the Neue Galerie, the Frick collection, Whitney Museum, … I suggest you do some research on which ones you want to visit – it is impossible to see them all.

If you are getting hungry and you want to mingle with the posh Upper East Siders, I recommend Café Boulud rated with one Michelin star. The chef, Daniel Boulud, has a few restaurants spread over NYC (including the three star rated restaurant "Daniel"). Café Boulud offers an affordable prix fixe lunch ($38 for three courses).

While you are in the neighborhood, also take a stroll on the exclusive Madison Avenue. High fashion brands have their store here. Around 60th Street, you will also find Barneys (an exclusive, high end, edgy and expensive fashion warehouse) and Bloomingdales or Bloomie's (a more affordable higher end shopping warehouse). As Macy's, Bloomingdales offers out of towners a 10% discount on their merchandise.

Since you splurged on lunch, I suggest you grab a quick bite at one of New York's diners or maybe try a hot dog, pretzel, kebab or chicken at one of New York food carts. At sunset, head to 230 Fifth for cocktails in the rooftop garden or in the penthouse lounge. Incredible views!

New York Tour Guide (4)

New Yorks Icons: Liberty, Empire State and Flat Iron

If the weather is nice (meaning no fog or rain), I suggest you schedule a date with New York City's famous icons!

Start the day early and head down to Battery Park where you can buy tickets to visit Liberty Island and Ellis Island. By noon, the lines for the ferry can get really long so the earlier you go, the better. Your first stop will be Liberty Island, home of the Statue of Liberty. You can visit the crown of Lady Liberty provided you booked tickets online enough time in advance. Even if you don’t have tickets to the crown, the island is worth a visit with its beautiful view on the Manhattan skyline. You can take some nice snapshots here!

The next ferry stop is Ellis Island, where you can (and should) visit the immigration museum. This is the place where immigrants in the 19^th century were "processed". Definitely take an audio tour which includes testimonials by former immigrants guiding you through the immigration center.

Once you’re back on the main land, go visit the Empire State Building. Although the view is not as beautiful as the Rockefeller, a visit is still very impressive – if only to see the inside of the building. While you’re there, you can also do some shopping at Macy’s. It is the biggest shop in Manhattan, and comprises two blocks full of merchandise, ranging from cosmetics and clothing to home and kitchen wear. If you’re an out-of-towner, you get a 10% discount code upon presenting your ID at the service desk on the mezzanine level (just ask any Macy’s employee, they'll show you the way).

Once you dragged yourself out of Macy's (with probably one or more shopping bags in your hand), walk south on 5th Avenue (or take a cab) towards Madison Square Park. Weather permitting, relax on one of the terraces facing the Flat Iron Building or get in line for a delicious burger at Shake Shack!

New York Tour Guide (3)

5th Avenue and Central Park

Of course, you can’t miss out on 5^th Avenue and midtown. I suggest you start at Grand Central Station, the big train station in the heart of New York. The grand hall is a beautiful site (for the photographers among us, try experimenting with your shutter time!). If you’re hungry while you’re here, there’s a good Italian restaurant, Cipriani Dolci, on the balcony of the hall.

Next, visit the Public Library on 5^th Avenue. Don’t forget to walk up the stairs, and see the big reading rooms (you’re free to just walk in). It’s quite impressive. Behind the public library is Bryant Park, a beautiful green spot surrounded by midtown skyscrapers. Until recently, this was the place where the fashion week tents were set up twice a year but as of September 2010, fashion week will take place at Lincoln Center. In winter, this park transforms into a Christmas village, complete with shops, big Christmas tree and ice-skating. Also an excellent place for a picnic (you’ll find take-out sandwich shops around the park such as Pret-A-Manger and Le Pain Quotidien).

Next, walk further up 5^th Avenue towards Central Park. You will pass the following New York shopping institutions: Saks Fifth Avenue (the upscale shopping warehouse), Henri Bendel (smaller fashion warehouse), Trump Tower (some hidden shops but just worth to walk in and see the lobby), Tiffany’s (the famous jewelry shop), Bergdorg Goodman (very upscale and expensive fashion warehouse), FAO Schwarz (the toy store heaven for kids) and of course, Apple’s glass cubicle store. Next to these, you will find stores from all major brands, from Gucci to H&M. Don’t hesitate to walk into a store, whether you’re in your most expensive outfit or ripped jeans, each and any store will welcome you with a big smile. A special mention goes to the Armani store, which has a beautiful modern white staircase – a must-see!

For a shopping break, visit the Rockefeller Center. You simply have to see the Top of the Rock. We prefer the Rockefeller over the Empire State Building (although the Empire State has more old charm), since it gives you a better view of Central Park and - of course - you can see the Empire State Building from up here. Buy the sunrise sunset tickets so you can return after dark!

When you reach Central Park, don’t forget to take a picture of the Plaza Hotel. Go for a posh afternoon tea at The Palm Court or drinks and food at The Oak Room...

If you're not tired yet, you can continue your walk in Central Park (or postpone this to another day). The must-sees in Central Park are (in order of appearance from South to North): The Pond with an amazing overview of the Central Park South skyline, Sheep’s Meadow where midtowners go to sunbathe in summer, The Mall where during nice weather local artists try to make some money, Bethesda Terrace with the beautiful fountain, the Boathouse where you can have a drink or rent a little boat to explore the lake, the Conservatory Water where little kids can rent a little toy boat and have their picture taken with the statue of Alice in Wonderland, the Ramble where you can get lost in Central Park’s little forest, Strawberry Fields with the popular (but little) “Imagine” mosaic (also have a look at John Lennon's Dakota Building), the Belvedere Castle overlooking the Big Lawn and Turtle Pond, the Big Lawn where uptowners go to sunbathe, the Reservoir where uptowners go to jog.

By now, you must be exhausted. If not, you’re superman(woman) and there's no kryptonite in sight. Time for dinner and you’re in luck: you’re close to our neighborhood, the Upper West Side. These are the places we recommend: Kefi’s, an affordable and delicious – always busy – Greek restaurant; Isabella’s, a more upscale but still very affordable Italian with outdoor seating; Shake Shack, a burger joint with one of the best burgers of New York (get take out and eat your burger in Central Park); B-Café, a Belgian restaurant with excellent fries and "stoverij" for the homesick Belgian tourist; Ouest, a more expensive Michelin rated American restaurant; Fred’s, a down to earth American diner serving everything from burgers to pasta; Five Napkin Burger, one of the better burger places in New York; Mermaid Inn, a nice seafood restaurant; Gennaro's, a really good, inexpensive Italian restaurant,... I could keep going like this forever!

As a night cap, go back to the Top of the Rock with your sunset tickets and gawp at the lights of this amazing city!

(click on the maps for a better view)

New York Tour Guide (2)

Exploring the Financial District

After more than a dozen visits to the Financial District, we have optimized the best route to see as many sites in as little time as possible. Beware, what follows is quite a hike! So, tie your shoe laces and follow me...

Start by taking the subway to Chambers Street, so you will get out near City Hall Park. This park contains a lot of New York's public buildings: the Courthouse, Manhattan Municipal Building and New York City Hall. Don't forget to look up for the beautiful Woolworth Building. By the way, for the electronics/photography geeks among us, J&R at City Hall Park is a really good store to buy the latest gadgets at a good price!

At the South end of the park, visit St Paul's Chapel, the place where 9/11 rescue workers received first care and food. Exit the chapel through the churchyard and then you will face Ground Zero. I still cannot believe that this little chapel survived the 9/11 attack... Pay a visit to the 9/11 Memorial where you can see the devastation caused by the attack but also the progress of the construction site which includes a museum, memorial, library, and the Freedom Tower. When finished (expected in 2013), this tower will be the highest in NYC with a symbolic 1776 feet (independence year).

If you need a break from the harsh 9/11 images, you could consider going into Century 21, the infamous outlet department store. But be prepared, this is the shopping equivalent of Ground Zero: this store is busy, very, very, very busy, packed with lots and lots of clothes, and lots and lots of tourists (especially Europeans). You can find some good sales here. I especially like their shoe department, for the clothing department you have to get lucky. Careful, you can easily spend 2 hours in this store without even knowing.

Continue your trip by taking Vesey Street to the World Financial Center, on the opposite site of Ground Zero. Inside the Financial Center is the Winter Garden, where you find yourself surrounded by palmtrees at any time of the year. When you take the big, white stairs (inspired by a kitschy Italian television show, if you ask me) up to the first level, you get a great overview of the Ground Zero construction site. Leave the Winter Garden at the other side of the building and voila, you're in a little yacht port at the Hudson River. The perfect spot for a drink! Don't you just love New York already?

After a relaxing drink, follow the Hudson River down South for a boardwalk view of the Statue of Liberty and the somewhat less exciting New Jersey. When you keep following the river, you will end up in Wagner Park. By now, you must be really hungry! Well, you are in luck... there happens to be a nice Italian restaurant with a view on the Statue of Liberty: Gigino. In summer, they have a nice terrace (you might want to call ahead to reserve a table, it can get busy here).

After lunch, go further down to Battery Park. This is the place where immigrants first set foot on US ground before Ellis Island was built in the late 19th Century. There are lots of monuments in this park, including a 9/11 memorial made out of the globe statue that used to stand between the twin towers.

Walk back into the city, towards the Bowling Green park at Broadway. Here you will find an excellent photo opportunity, Wall Street's Charging Bull (you'll have to wait in line with the other tourists for a picture). Walk along Broadway going North, on the left side you will see Trinity Church. Across from the church is Wall Street, another excellent photo op, with the New York Stock Exchange and Federal Hall.

Now, if you still feel up to it (if not, take a cab!), take Wall Street all the way to the East River and walk up North along the river until you reach South Street Seaport at Pier 17 for some shopping and drinks. Make sure you find a terrace with a view on the Brooklyn Bridge! In summer, you can enjoy Water Taxi Beach with food, music and an actual sandy beach.

That's the Financial District in one day!

(ps: click on the maps for a better view)